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1 NOAA Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory 2 Swinburne University of Technology Melbourne

Abstract : This paper presents the development of a new approach, based on wavelet spectrum analysis, for the detection of breaking waves in a time series of surface wave fluctuations. The approach is shown to be capable of producing equivalent wave breaking statistics as field measurements based on detection of whitecaps at a fixed point of observation. This wavelet-based approach is applicable to both deep water and finite depth environments. Based on applications of this approach to the analysis of available field data, a novel classification of wave breaking processes that consists of incipient, developing, and subsiding phases is proposed.





Autor: P. C. Liu - A. V. Babanin -

Fuente: https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/



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